How to design a wine program that reflects your restaurant’s price point and complements the cuisine
My job takes me throughout California, where I am blessed to be able to experience different types of restaurants. From local and fresh to the large chains, most have a clear sense of the market they hope to attract. Regardless of the theme, many these restaurants are supported by wine programs that mirror the cuisine and price point. However, this is not always the case. With the New Year upon us, it’s a good time to review your wine program to ensure that you’ve covered your bases.
Wine and food pairing
This is one area that restaurateurs fail to analyze thoroughly. I understand that, ultimately, one must consider what will sell and what won’t, but success of a wine program does not solely depend on this rule of thumb. If you are willing to take the risk of offering cuisine that is unique in your market, then your wine program should reflect your willingness to go out on a limb. For example, if your menu involves a lot of exotic ingredients and spices, wines with a lot of tannin or alcohol might not be your best choice. Conversely, if your restaurant serves food that is rich in protein and natural fats, you would be correct in offering tannin-evident wine. A smart practice would be to consider the food first, determine what varieties will showcase your cuisine in the best way then select wines from those categories.
Price point formula for wine by the bottle programs
I must preface this next point by pointing out that comprehensive wine programs that offer more than 100 selections don’t necessarily subscribe to this practice. However, I feel fairly safe in saying that 90 percent of existing wine programs don’t exceed 100 offerings.
When I design wine lists, I like to take the most expensive menu item, multiply it by two and construct 80 percent of my wine list with items priced below that total. For example, if my most expensive menu item is $30, 80 percent of my wine program would include wines that cost the guest $60 or less per bottle. For the other 20 percent, I may include higher-end selections to enhance the overall perception of the list.
Select wines that express the style of the restaurant
I was in a restaurant recently that had a fantastic wine program. The list was peppered with small production domestic Pinot Noir producers and obscure German Riesling offerings from little-known appellations – the buyer was an artiste after my own heart.
The problem: The restaurant sold sandwiches and salads. The people who would frequent this kind of restaurant would not necessarily be in the market for these esoteric wines. I have nothing against putting wines you adore on the wine list. After all, the restaurant’s custom wine program should bear the stamp of the designer. However, I suspect, at times, these masterpieces are more a showcase of one’s immense knowledge and taste rather than a practical, useful expression of the restaurant.
A good question to ask would be, “Does this wine selection serve the restaurant or me best?”
Remember, in the end, slowly turning inventory will kill even the best restaurant!
Wine list proposal for modest seafood restaurant
Here is an example of a wine list I designed a couple of years ago for a small, quaint restaurant in a beach town: Copy of Henry's Seafood Bar Wine Proposal.xls (30.50 kb)
The food menu was modest, and the most expensive item was $20. Notice most of the grape variety choices pair well with seafood. The red wine selections center primarily on lighter, less tannic wines which also pair well with most seafood. Wines high-lighted in yellow are distributed by Southern Wine & Spirits of California. I have changed the name of the restaurant to protect the innocent. -- Reggie
Reggie Narito is a master sommelier, director of training, and a prestige accounts specialist for Southern Wine & Spirits of Northern California.
Comment on this blog: What rules of thumb do you employ to design your wine program? Does Reggie's advice regarding price points, cuisine and restaurant style resonate with your own experience?
